A Better Brew
What’s beneath the clouds in your coffee? A canopy of shade trees? Migratory songbirds? A farmer growing the best beans he can? No wonder coffee mugs are so large—in this global village, a cup of joe has far-reaching effects.
Sustainability in a Cup
Coffee plants are especially susceptible to disease and insect damage, causing many growers to spray heavily with persistent, toxic pesticides. Organic coffee is produced without these substances, so while you’re safeguarding your own health, the soil, the water, the wildlife, the farmer and his family, and the rest of humankind all benefit, too. With conventionally grown decaffeinated coffee, you may ingest not only dubious chemicals used for growing but also questionable substances used to remove caffeine—all prohibited in certified organic coffee.
Coffee plants do grow fast in full sun, but they produce best in an ecosystem that includes a variety of forest and fruit trees for shade, which also provide habitat for migratory birds and other wildlife. The high-yield, full-sun approach actually costs more per kilogram since growers must buy fertilizers and pesticides. Offering little food or shelter, these sun plantations attract few birds and wildlife to control pests, and technification—the conversion from shade to sun production of beans— quickly exhausts the soil’s nutrients.
By contrast, diversity thrives on sustainable shade plantations where birds, animals, ants, spiders, and other natural controls keep pests in check, and living things add nutrients to the soil. Traditional, small farms replicate the structure of the natural forest—canopies shade the understory of coffee bushes while insect and bird varieties rival those in tropical forests. Just as crucial, other crops grown on shade plantations provide sustenance for the grower and his family.
Make a Difference
Read and understand the following labels to choose wisely:
Certified Bird Friendly coffee must also be certified organic and shade grown without persistent, synthetic chemicals. Research by the Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center shows alarming declines of migratory birds, due in part to sun plantations.
Fair Trade Certified ensures that farmers earn a living wage by marketing their beans in co-ops, avoiding middlemen who siphon off profits. Not necessarily organic, fair trade does require environmental stewardship. And most fair trade–certified coffee sold in the U.S. is certified organic.
Certified Organic production, which maintains and replenishes soil, is best for growers and their families, consumers, and the ecosystem. Plants are grown without synthetic pesticides or other prohibited substances for three years, with a sufficient buffer between organic coffee and the nearest conventional crop. Farmers must have a sustainable crop rotation plan to prevent soil erosion and nutrient depletion and to control pests.
Shade-grown coffee promotes biodiversification. “Only a tiny percent of coffee sold in the U.S. is labeled shade grown. By comparison, about 4 or 5 percent carries the certified organic seal,” says Rodney North of Equal Exchange.
“Ultimately,” adds North, “organic consumers care as much about the people who grow and pick their food as they do about the farming methods used.” Since coffee is one of the world’s most heavily traded commodities, our choices can make a difference.
“We are organic for a reason—the farmers and the sustainability of our planet,” says Michael Sweeney, president and CEO of Voyava Republic. “We are committed to preserving health, great taste, opportunities for people, and sustainable farming.”
If you can say “half-decaf, double-latte frappucino,” how hard is it to add “and make that organic, bird friendly, fair trade, and shade grown”?
SELECTED SOURCES:
“The Campaign to Humanize the Coffee Trade” Daniel Zwerdling, NPR News, http://americanradioworks.publicradio.org, 2007
“Coffee That Eases the Conscience” David Barton Bray, Florida International University magazine, http://news.fiu.edu, Fall 1999
Personal communication: Rodney North, Equal Exchange; Michael Sweeney, president & CEO, Voyava Republic, 11/16/07
“More Coffee? It May Keep the Memory Sharp,” Fisher Center for Alzheimer’s Research Foundation, www.alzinfo.org, 8/6/07
“Shade Grown Coffee,” Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center, http://nationalzoo.si.edu




