We’ve been using plants and even raw honey to illumine our locks since ancient times. Women and men color their hair for many reasons, sometimes simply to make a statement or to try a different look. Coloring our hair is natural—what can get unhealthy is the chemistry.

Dangerous Chemistry

There are two parts to the chemistry of hair color: lift and deposit. They can happen in separate applications or within the same procedure. The deposit occurs when the cuticle opens and the pigments bond to the hair. Some processes only deposit color. Some only lift color by bleaching.

Developers lift the cuticle of the hair to allow color to penetrate the strand as well as catalyze the color molecules. Developers are made from either peroxide, ammonia, or both. They literally blow the bark off your tree with heavy chemistry.

The hard fact about color pigments (the deposit) is that most are made from coal-tar derivatives, known as aniline dyes or tints. Studies have indicated that these ingredients and others used in conventional products are linked to serious allergic reactions; some of the ingredients are even indicated as cancer-causing.

There are gentler, low- or no-ammonia products on the market. However, the color is still typically an aniline derivative, or the products contain the relatively toxic dyes p-phenylenediamine or toluene-2,4-diamine. Why do these products even exist? Because many of us want quick, long-lasting, inexpensive, and easy hair color. But the price we pay is our health.

The Color of Beauty

The only truly natural, permanent (once it is in, it is in to stay) color comes from parts of the Lawsonia inermis plant, known commonly as henna, which produces a red hue in the hair and can be mixed with other plant dyes to create shades of blond, brown, and black. These require craft to create believable results. Also, clear, or neutral, henna renders a glasslike shine to any natural hair shade.

There’s a new generation of pre-blended henna stains that create soft blondes, exciting auburns, and believable brunettes, and are said to cover even the whitest hair (typically requiring more than one application). Hennas are found in health food stores, and most brands have tips for creating conditioning color using eggs and even yogurt.

When reapplying to new growth, take care not to overlap so you don’t create color buildup. Also, don’t perm after a henna treatment without a strand test first. Henna’s natural mineral salts can react with perm solutions, causing unanticipated color changes and, in some instances, breakage.

More Natural Options

Botanical pigments made from indigo, blue malva, and even coffee also create believable color, gently camouflage gray, and brighten natural tones. Some brands to look for include Herbatint from Bioforce and Tints of Nature. The color rinses out over time so the regrowth is subtle. High-quality plant stains or botanical colors work well in conjunction with hennas. Also look for botanically infused shampoos that render subtle color changes in the hair.