Ever thought about what makes those aromatic soaps and lotions so fragrant? If that intoxicating smell is coming from a conventional product, that sweet gardenia scent is, in all likelihood, a synthetic substance.

Problems with Synthetics

“Synthetic fragrances are typically much less expensive and easier to work with than natural fragrances and so are very common in conventional cosmetics,” says cosmetic chemist Autumn Blum of Organix-South, Inc. “Most companies that use natural fragrances say so on the label. And if a product does not say ‘made with natural fragrance or essential oils,’ the fragrance is probably synthetic.” Blum notes that synthetic fragrances are usually the most irritating ingredients in any personal care product. “Synthetic ingredients are responsible for most of the skin reactions that occur from cosmetics,” adds Angelica Vrablic, PhD, at Home Health.

Despite names that sound natural and ingredients like green tea and lavender, conventional beauty products typically contain a cocktail of synthetic tongue twisters like linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, which you might want to avoid. “Conventional products, usually designed to provide short-term effects, tend to contain mineral oil and other petrochemicals because they are inexpensive,” adds Linda Miles, LAc, DOM, of derma e Natural Bodycare. “Cheap, low-quality ingredients like mineral oil can be blended with synthetic emulsifiers to keep a product from separating. This can make a mineral oil-based lotion or moisturizer look and feel like a high-quality natural plant or nut-based cosmetic,” says Dr. Vrablic.

“Synthetics can also mask problems in a product, like a low-quality formulation or a very old product,” she adds. “If a product contains parabens, for example, it can sit on the shelf for two years and still look and smell okay, but the active ingredients in the formulation may have oxidized, making the product less effective.”

“In January 2004 research published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology found parabens in 20 human breast tumors,” says Angella Green of Jason Natural Products. “Parabens are preservatives used in many pharmaceutical, food, and cosmetic products.” Although this study did not show a direct cause-and-effect relationship between parabens and breast cancer, parabens have been found to mimic the activity of estrogen, which promotes the growth of breast cancer cells.

Regulatory Concerns

While not all synthetic ingredients are harmful, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which oversees cosmetics, does not approve or review a product until it is on the market. Manufacturers are not required to report any injuries or safety data on ingredients before they are marketed and sold to the public. The FDA can implement safety regulations only after a problem arises.

“Although the FDA has managed to prohibit a few ingredients that have proved hazardous to human health and the environment,” adds Kim Erickson, author of Drop-Dead Gorgeous, “without strict governmental guidelines for ingredients, cosmetics manufacturers can put anything they please into their products. The mere fact that a product shows up on the market doesn’t mean it’s safe.” In fact, researchers from the National Research Council found that only a few of the thousands of commercial chemicals common in household products have been subjected to extensive toxicity testing.

Natural Benefits

What can you do? Go natural. Natural product manufacturers work proactively to avoid questionable ingredients. Many natural cosmetic companies are actively eliminating dubious ingredients as new research is published that indicates potential toxicity.